Content of the box:
- 1 Vaponic (Img. 01) consisting of :
- 1 Inner Tube made of 1mm Borosilicate 3.3 glass with 1 Inner filter made of stainless steel (Img. 02)
- 1 Outer Tube made of 1mm Borosilicate 3.3 glass (Img. 03)
- 1 Connecting Piece made of medical silicone (Img. 04)
- 1 Mouthpiece made of 1mm AR glass (Img. 05)
- 1 Marker Shaped Case (Img. 06) consisting of:
- 1 Hollow Marker
- 1 Black Silicone Lid made of ultra heat resistant silicone (Img. 06)
- 1 Multifunctional tool + 1 Yellow Silicone Ring (Img. 07)
- 1 Extra Filter Screen made of stainless steel for vaporizing resins (Img. 7A)
Store your multifunctional tool and your Vaponic inside the marker case. It will be protected against unwanted damage. Put the yellow rubber ring on the tool to make it easier to find it when dropped on the floor e.g. Put your Vaponic into the marker shaped case first with the mouthpiece looking forward and afterwards the tool together with the lid to close it. Like that the tool and the vaporizer can’t get stuck inside and the black silicone lid will fit perfectly (Img. 08).
Using your Vaponic
Open the Vaponic (Img. 09) and stuff your herbal blend or tobacco into the filling chamber. You can grind the herbs but there’s no need to do so. Just roll and squeeze them between your fingers for a second and push them inside. They may neither pass the limits of the filling chamber and jut out of it nor fall out of it (Img. 10A)!
To vaporize resins use the extra screen provided for that purpose and follow the steps indicated on picture 10B. Check out the related video on www.vaponic.com!
Heat up the outer tube of your Vaponic with a lighter. IMPORTANT: As indicated on the picture (Img. 11), only heat it up between the red line with the logo and the closed end of the outer tube, not at the end (because you might burn the plant, Img. 12) or closer to the red line (because the vaporizer won’t work and you might burn your fingers as well, Img. 13). Rotate the pipe while heating in order to spread the heat over the tube equally from all sides.
You can use any flame or lighter, but Jetflame or turbo lighters are highly recommended, specially when used outdoors (Img. 14). If you use a normal lighter, then heat the tube up with the blue part of the flame and not with or above the yellow part of the flame. This will help to avoid soot on the glass (Img. 15).
You can control the temperature visually by observing the color of the herbs inside the filling chamber. When they start to turn slightly brownish because of the heat after ca. 10 seconds – depending on the ambient air temperature and the strength and heat of the flame – , then you know it’s the right time to vaporize (Img. 12 – 15)! If it’s dark or when using the extra resin filter then you can’t use that visual control and you have to control the vapor itself every 10 seconds during the heating. Inhale deeply through the mouthpiece for various seconds. Don’t cover the two holes in the silicone connecting piece with your fingers, otherwise your vaporizer won’t work (Img. 16A)!
Can you see vapor when you exhale? Then the Vaponic has the right temperature for vaporizing. Stop heating and continue using the heat stored in the device to go for some more puffs (Img. 16).
Do you not see vapor (any longer) when you exhale? Then the Vaponic is still to cold for vaporizing (or has lost its heat). Heat it up a bit more and try again.
Can you see very thick vapor when you exhale? Then you’ve brought your Vaponic close to the burning point. Do not heat it up any more – unless you like extremely thick vapor.
Don’t burn yourself with the hot end (Img. 19)! It will always be safe to touch the pipe on the glass between de red line and the mouthpiece but don’t touch it below the red line. You can protect the hot end with the black lid of the marker pen. It’s made out of heat resistant silicone and specially designed for that purpose (Img. 20). You can also use the lid when you want to put your Vaponic somewhere for a second. It will protect the surface (of the table e.g.) from the heat and make sure the Vaponic won’t roll and drop down on the floor (Img. 21).
Your Vaponic is made out of heat resistant Borosilicate 3.3 glass and does not get damaged by exposure to direct flame. Still you must let it cool down on its own and not use cold water or anything similar to speed up the cooling process. Doing so will damage the glass. After usage we recommend to take the tobacco out of the filling chamber and put the Vaponic back into its case. There it can cool down safely and will be well protected (Img. 08).
The multifunctional tool
The multifunctional tool (Img. 07) included in the kit makes the usage and maintenance of the Vaponic even easier. You can always carry it around as it fits inside the marker shaped case. The tool can be used for:
- taking the vaporized herbs out out the filling chamber (Img. 22)
- pushing the steel filter out of the inner glass tube. Warm up the inner tube around the filter shortly before doing so in order to liquify the resin accumulated around the filter. (Img. 23 + 24)
- cleaning the inner tube by pushing a piece of a tissue soaked in ethyl alcohol up and down the inner tube with the shaped end of the tool (Img. 25 + 26)
- placing the steel filter inside the inner glass tube and measuring the furthest you should push the steel filter inside for herbs (Img. 27). For resins push the filter further inside (Img. 10B).
- holding the steel filter if you needed to burn it for cleaning purposes (Img. 31)
- adjusting the strength of the flame of the lighter (Img. 28)
Troubleshooting and Cleaning
The only reason that may cause a Vaponic to malfunction is a blocked airstream, either because you put the silicone connecting piece up side down on the inner glass tube (Img. 29 + 30) or because you cover the holes of the connecting piece with your fingers (Img. 16A) or because you stuffed the filling chamber with too much pressure or because the filter is blocked. You can easily find out if it’s blocked by trying to blow through the inner tube. The typical ‘dirt’ produced by vaporizing is a thin layer of usually yellowish resin. The resin itself actually only contains the plant’s substances and therefore can’t really be considered dirt, but it can block the filter. If the filter is blocked, then the air stream can’t find it’s way any longer hence stopping one´s ability to vaporize properly. That said, the resin that collects on the thin steel screen filter usually ends up being vaporized when the Vaponic is heated up and used again and the screen is not likely to get blocked. Still, if you really needed to clean your filter, then you should either do it with ethyl alcohol or burn it with a flame. The latter will help dissolve even more solid dirt (Img. 31) and can also be used to clean efficiently even extremely resistant dirt (‘dark shadows’) inside the filling chamber (Img. 32) and/or the end of the outer tube (Img. 33). Make sure to let it cool down on its own! DON’T burn the mouthpiece(Img. 34)! For the cleaning of the single parts it is best to use a tissue and ethyl alcohol or pure acetone. The inner tube can be cleaned as described on Img. 25 and 26).
If used as described, the Vaponic has a two-year warranty on the glass pieces, the rubber pieces and the marker shaped case. Damage due to one’s own fault is not covered. Please note that the red imprint on the outer tube will withstand heat (avoid direct flame exposure), alcohol and dishwashing detergents amongst other cleansing products. Nevertheless there are cosmetic products (some hand creams e.g.) that can eventually harm the colors. Damage to the imprint is not covered by the warranty.
As for the filter screen it won’t break with correct usage. The dirtying of the filter is influenced by the herbal blend or tobacco you’ve chosen, which is up to your responsibility. If you want to replace it you can obtain our steel filters as well as any other spare part either from your local store or on www.vaponic.com.